Cover: Dining in Athens, Greece
Photo: Kim Hull, Cool Adventures © Chasing Light Media
Article by Kim Hull
I really don’t know how Athenians don’t weigh 1000 pounds. After spending three months in the gym following our month-long visit to Greece in April, we were determined that during our return in December, we’d avoid gaining weight. Our determination lasted about as long as our Uber ride from the airport. You see, the apartment where we stay in Athens is above a gelato shop.
I thought maybe they would be closed for the winter. Nope. Oh, my – well, best-laid plans and all…
Eating our way through Athens
Having already seen the sights, visited the monuments, and toured the museums during our April visit, we planned on a month of simply living in Athens enjoying the culture, the people, and the food.
The food in Greece is simply delicious. I could exist on Greek salads alone and, as my Greek-American friend Paula says, “Everything’s betta with feta!” But there is so much more. From tzatziki to souvlaki to the seafood, the Greeks have mastered the craft of cooking. And, we in turn, did quite a bit of sampling and eating in Athen’s restaurants – and here are some of our favorite finds…
Our first stop upon arrival was dinner to celebrate our anniversary and we chose one of our favorite restaurants in Plaka, Stamatopoulos Tavern. Located at the foot of Lisiou Street (the stairs in Plaka with the restaurants and bars), in the summer the restaurant has a large, lovely outdoor dining patio and in the winter, the indoor restaurant is full of charm and warmth. With music and good food, we visit Stamatopoulos Tavern once a week when we are in Athens. Yes, it’s a bit touristy, but yes, it is enjoyable. Our go-to menu selection: octopus and a Greek salad. νόστιμο! (Delicious!)
Stamatopoulos Tavern is located in Plaka at Lisiou 26, Athina.
Eclectic and relaxed with a wide range of cuisine options, we visited Mama Roux multiple times during the month. We highly recommend the Meza Sampler – the Moutabal (smoked aubergine purée, we had it vegetarian) is amazing. We also always get the quesadillas, which are tasty and the pico actually has a kick.
Mama Roux is located near Monastiraki at Aiolou 48, Athina. From the Starbucks, walk up the street with the home goods and cloth stores.
Eat at Milton’s
We’d dined at Eat at Milton’s when we were in Athens in April and it was definitely on our must return list for our December visit. A lovely, upscale restaurant in Plaka, Eat at Milton’s is the place to go for a little bit of luxury. On this visit, we began with a bottle of Prosecco, which we leisurely enjoyed as we watched the frantic holiday crowds bustling about outside.
Next up, the Bio Greek salad which is an art form at Eat at Milton’s – so pretty, you almost don’t want to eat it – almost. The salad was fresh and tasty with an innovative spin on a Greek classic. For our main courses, we had the shrimp ravioli and the fettuccine vognole. Both were fabulous and the shrimp sauce on the shrimp ravioli is amazing.
While one of the pricer restaurants in Plaka, a lunch or dinner at Eat at Milton’s is definitely a luxurious treat. Eat at Milton’s is located at the corner of Adrianou and Nikodimou Streets in Plaka at Adrianou 91, Athina.
The Greco’s Project
A very busy spot near Syntagma Square, The Greco’s Project delivers true value, serving super tasty fare for very reasonable prices. As we don’t eat meat, souvlaki is normally out of the question for us, but The Greco’s Project does a vegetable souvlaki in a pita with the yogurt sauce that is fabulous. As far as the other items we sampled… skip the pasta – not enough sauce. The Greek salad is interesting, using caper leaves instead of capers. The Greco’s Project salad is quite good and the bean soup is really tasty. The pitas are divine.
The Greco’s Project is located at Mitropoleos 5, Athina.
Cherchez La Femme
We must have walked by this restaurant 100 times before a friend recommended we give it a try and he was so correct. Located on Mitropoleos across from the cathedral, Cherchez La Femme is the perfect spot for a lazy afternoon of wine and small plates. We had the smoked mackerel, portabellos, octopus and a few other delicious dishes. Well worth a visit!
Cherchez La Femme is located at Mitropoleos 46, Athina across from Mētrópolis, the Metropolitan Cathedral of the Annunciation.
Mani Mani, or Manh Manh, came highly recommended by an Athenian friend (yep, the same one that recommended Cherchez La Femme – the guy knows food) and Mani Mani did not disappoint. Serving creative food in a charming atmosphere with stellar service, we loved Mani Mani. We began with the Mani Mani salad, greens in a sun-dried tomato dressing and topped with grilled goat cheese. Spectacular.
Next up, balsamic glazed octopus on a bed of fava bean purée (yeah, we rarely pass up the octopus in Greece). The octopus was tender and flavorful and the fava bean purée serves as an amazing dipping sauce for the delicious bread.
For the main course, we opted for the special, a seafood orzo in a sauce accented with fennel. It was superb. The presentation was excellent, the atmosphere is lovely with great music and, for the price, Mani Mani is a must visit. It’s just a couple of streets over from the Acropolis Museum at Falirou 10, Athina.
Psaras in Plaka
When we were in Athens for the month of April, we spent many afternoons on our perch on Lisiou on “the stairs” sipping vodka at Psaras. This December, we moved inside for dinners, still amazed by the view, but enjoying the good food in the warmth of the glass-enclosed patio. We typically partake of the octopus or the sea bass. Both are excellent choices and enjoyed with a stunning view overlooking Athens.
Psaras Traditional Restaurants in Plaka are located at the top of the Lisiou Street stairs at Erotokritou ke Erechtheos 16, Athina.
Bel Paese Pasta al Momento
We first saw this restaurant when headed to the market/grocery located next door. Beautifully decorated, Bel Paese Pasta al Momento is one of those restaurants that hits on all points without appearing to try too hard. The decor is upscale comfortable, the music selection relaxing, the service friendly and thoughtful, and the food spot on. The Bel Paese salad is splendid – fresh, crisp lettuce, dried cranberries, onion, avocado, orange, almonds with orange-honey-mustard dressing. Both Rigatoni al Tonno and the Tagliatelle Alla Puttanesca were tasty and, on another visit, we had Capricciosa pizza, which was delicious.
Bel Paese Pasta al Momento is located near the Acropolis Museum subway station at Athanasiou Diakou 6, Athina.
We’d passed this spot several times on the weekend and it was always crowded, so we decided to pay a visit on a weekday afternoon and managed to grab a table. We opted for the eggs benedict with salmon and the avocado toast with poached eggs and jalapeño sauce. The eggs were cooked perfectly and the coffee was aromatic.
Harvest Coffee & Wine is located on Evripidou, Athina. From the Starbucks, walk up the street with the home goods and cloth stores. It’s on the corner of Evripidou and Aiolou.
The Pasta Shop
If you are looking for some homemade pasta and sauce at very reasonable prices, this is the place. Everything is made on site from fresh ingredients. We loved the rosa and the Arrabiata sauces. Inexpensive (6-7€ each) and cooked to order.
The Pasta Shop is located just a couple blocks around the corner from the Starbucks in Monastiraki at Kalamiotou 9A, Athina.
At Αιόλου 68 in central Athens is a great spot with a large seafood selection, very tasty food, great service, and a wonderful atmosphere that makes for an excellent dining experience. We sampled multiple dishes including the Santorini fava bean purée, the octopus, and the fish soup – all which were quite good. Our favorite though was the Caesar salad with smoked haddock – absolutely delicious!
Αιόλου 68 is appropriately located at Aiolou 68, Athina.
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